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| Market stall next
to my hotel in Hanoi, which was in the Dong Xuan Market. |
A butcher's stall
in Hanoi. Yes, this is in fact how meat is sold: in fact, this is
better than most. |
Man plowing with
a water buffalo, outside Hanoi. (This photo needs cropping badly,
but I didn't have time--sorry!) |
Apartment of a poor
Hanoi citydweller. It's a 10x12 unheated, unpainted concrete cubicle.
That's the bed: a hard wooden bed with thin straw mat. |
| Trip
to a Farm |
| One of
the hotel clerks in Hanoi invited me to tour his family's farm. So
we got on a motorbike and off we went...70 kilometers up to his family's
lychee farm, near the Chinese border. |
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| A view from his parents'
farm. |
A worker comes up
the dirt road. The green and red trees in the background are lychee
trees. |
Rice fields near
his family's farm. |
Nice view of a stream,
near the toll gate... |
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An impromptu toll gate set up at the entrance to the village. The
bridge over the stream in the last photo had nearly washed out,
so some village children were imposing a "toll" to raise
funds. (See the kids on the right?)
Having seen the bridge, I was more than happy to contribute...I'm
amazed it didn't dump us into the river, frankly.
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My guide's mother,
plucking a chicken for our lunch. I was moderately surprised to find
them slitting a chicken's throat over a bowl (the cooked blood later
wound up on my plate, too), but the crowning touch was finding half
a chicken head on my plate too--with beak and (closed) eyes. I didn't
eat it, but I wonder now what it would have been like... |
Wood fire for boiling
the chicken. |
Big baskets where
his father keeps fighting-cocks. These are almost ubiquitous in rural
yards in Asia, where cockfighting is a major entertainment in the
evenings. |
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| A water buffalo at
a nearby farm. Hey, so I *like* water buffalo.... |
My guide's sister
arrived with a full basket of morning-glory leaves, so I begged to
try out the Vietnamese shoulder-sling. It's surprisingly stable, and
very well-designed for carrying loads. |
...speaking of loads,
this was another startling sight along the way. It's amazing what
people transport on bicycles in Asia... |
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| Halong
Bay and Catba Island |
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| Halong Bay is full
of gorgeous karst (limestone) islands like these...unfortunately it
rained on the way in and out, so I didn't get many good photos. |
Man paddling a boat
in Catba Harbor. |
Limestone formations
in a cave in Halong Bay. This photo does not do the cave justice...it
was amazing, but my photos mostly didn't come out. |
We went hiking on
the second day, passing through a flooded forest... |
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| ...another forest
photo. We scrambled over some very dangerous, sharp, slippery, and
muddy rocks for five hours... |
...emerging into
this beautiful valley... |
...where we ate lunch
in a minority village. Northern Vietnam gets quite chilly, so this
thatched hut is daubed with mud on the outside to strengthen it. |
Scorpion brandy.
The Vietnamese have a very strange taste for putting odd animals into
brandy or whisky as tonics...I saw silkworms, geckoes, three different
species of snake, crows (!), and seahorses (among other things). |
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| A funeral procession
in Bat Trang, a potterymaking village (aka tourist trap) near Hanoi. |
A mechanical loom
with 36 harnesses, running off a string of punchcards at top right. |
The punchcards. It
was mesmerizing to sit there and watch the loom weave...I wish Id'
been able to ask more questions. |
A green treesnake in brandy. I kept waiting to see the giant clear
glass vat with an entire cow suspended in it...I'm sure they've
got one *somewhere* in Vietnam.
And yes, they *do* actually drink the stuff. Even the ones with
1000 silkworm caterpillars in the bottle...
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